Musicstar

Well apparently I am a fast driver. I have in the past couple of days received two tickets from New Zealand for doing 70km in a 50km zone. Yikes, these aren't cheap too! They are from my last few days driving around Northland. So as a warning to all other tourists driving around Northland watch out for the photo radar. In fact I am amazed that they tracked me down considering it appears the car rental agent spelled my street name wrong. I guess I don't technically have to pay, except that I'd like to be able to return to New Zealand some day soon. Sigh.

Today I decided to complete my list of methods of travel and took a helicopter ride to White Island off the coast of the Bay of Plenty. White Island is essentially an island the is comprised of an active volcanoe. It is privately owned and can be only accessed by a tour operator. I had the great fortune to share my ride with a woman from Rotorua who's great uncle was in fact the man who bought the island in 1936, for what I found out was only 150 pounds! There were some interesting details I got to learn on the trip, that I likely wouldn't have without her on the ride. It was in fact her first time ever on the island. The ride from Rotorura to White Island was 45 minutes each way and we spent about anouther couple of hours wandering around the island itself. One day a glacier the next a volcanoe. This country is brilliant!

I think Rotorua and I have a special kinship. Ever since Jr. Kindergarden when Dan Kelly christened me with the nickname Fart¹ I have had a special association with fart smells. In grade school I was dogged with the nickname and was the obvious candidate, by namesake only, when someone "let one rip." The name stunk until high school when in grade nine people realised we were immature to continue using such a childish name. Phew!

So, as warned by people and books, now in Rotorua I am greeted to the delightful smell of sulfur. In fact the plane had barely broken the clouds on descent into Rotorua airport when the smell entered the cabin. How odourific!

In ones adult years, farting is a childish enjoyment, less appropriate for public spaces. My social decencies tell me to hold it in for fear of embarrassing myself as the one who "dealt it." But here I am letting them fly with satisfaction in knowing that I am contributing to the local economic touristic potential engine of Rotorura!

And I promise that will the be the one and only skatagorical (sp?) blog I post (on this trip).

¹To be fair if not for Dan, then someone else once playing the name game with Martin, would have figured out for sure. So no bad feelings held here

Okay, for anyone who has been to Fox or Franz Joseph Glaciers, you'll know that money will buy you anything and the ability to do anything... however, regardless I still want to shout that: "I walked on a F**kin' Glacier!" There I've done it I've dropped the F-Bomb. It was bound to happen given the sailor-sized mouth I have been known to have. Given the excitment I want to convey, however, I feel it appropriate. I didn't slip and fall, unlike numerous attempts on smaller tracks of ice (i.e. winter in Toronto, hey, do we still have that, no fair on the weather reports!).

I had the good fortune, however, of having a nice sunny moment while clilmbing the ice. Usually the best you can hope for is rain. Something is smiling down on me.

Oh, yeah. I never pose for shots, but then again I am on a Fuckin' Glacier!

It has been a while since I've imparted some detail of my adventures. This would be because I've either been running from one destination to another or in the bush tramping around. So let's play some catchup!

Christchurch

Arrived in Christchurch after spending a night in Murchison, or actually just outside on a farm with some friends of Laura's. We stayed in tents and got soaked in the morning as we packed them up. The drive to Christchurch from Murchison started off very rainy in the mountains that run along the West coast of New Zealand. As we left the mountains the sun was shining and the day turned quite hot. This would be the standard fare for the South Island. Whatever the weather is on one side it's the complete opposite on the other. Yes, I'm Canadian and specifically from Toronto where all we talk about is the weather!

In Christchurch we arrived stinky and tired. We hadn't showered since Picton before the Queen Charlotte Track, so of course showers were of top priority. Here we stayed with more friends of Laura's.

As for Christchurch itself, it was comparatively flat compared to any other city I've been in New Zealand so far. Explore the beach, the one main mountain range that divides Christchurch from the ocean. Found the small harbour "suburb" of Lyttleton to be quite charming and unlike the spotlessness of the rest of Christchurch. The downtown is small to what I'm used. The Art Centre and Art Gallery are both beautiful places to walk around. There is also a botanical gardens, which yes I managed to shoot more flower pictures of.

Dunedin

Left Christchurch on what was looking again to be another rainy day. As we headed down the East coast the rainy disappeared and it was back to a decent sunny day. We stop in a couple of places briefly, Timaru and Moeraki, and eventually descended in the city of Dunedin.

Dunedin, which is a student town, was at this time of year very dead. Many things were closed and aside from the setup for the New Years Eve Party in the Octagon there was no one around. In fact when we finally ventured on New Years Eve to the Octagon we were surprised there was anyone there to watch! The city itself is by far the most gritty of cities I've seen. Lots of graffiti and stencils on the walls, which was actually humourous and interesting. Countdown to the New Year and then on our way!

The Catlins

Our mad dash continued with one night in the Caltins, which is on the South end of the South Island. It features a rain forest-like climate intermixed with farms and mountains. We stayed in Papatowai. Here we visited the Lost Gypsy Caravan "gallery". It boasts lots of Gizmos, Gadgets and Automata and does not disappoint with many little trinkets you crank handles and flip switches to experience something truly unique. Most notable are the "Southern Gurglers" which uses a sea shell to create a bubbling noise as you turn the crank. Lots of fun.

The Catlins features some really beautiful forests. They are littered with ferns and moss which leave you with a stunning impression of the colour green. Most people, like myself, barely spend a night here. There are lots of great little sights, that had I the time would have liked to have seen more of.

Stewart Island (Rakiura)

Onward to Stewart Island to tackle the Rakiura Track. Took a flight across the straight as the word on the street is it's one of the roughest crossings in the world. The plan was small. I'd never flown on one that small in fact. The flight there was painless, no bumps, no scares. The flight on the way back, however, was a very, very, windy days. Until recently I had barely enjoyed the thrill of a roller coaster, now I can say this was much more um-thrilling!

The tiny town of Oban which is supported by both tourism and fishing is actually very enjoyable. It is nestled in Halfmoon Bay and has all the necessities needed to relax and escape. Of course one night here and onto the track. Three days in the woods. Lots to say, but again like the Queen Charlotte Track, I'd rather show it (see another blog entry below).

I now sit in Invercargill on a rainy day in the Internet cafe. And now we are all caught up!

Took a rather chaotic ferry from Wellington to Picton. The ferry was late to sail because the waters were rough cause the boat ahead of ours to be delayed 2 hours. It was also the Friday before Christmas to boot. Lots of cars, trucks, campers and vans (like Bee) lined up in every which direction. The ship set sail an hour and a half late at 8:15pm.

Immediately after leaving Wellington harbour the boat pitched itself back and forth quite dramatically. Laura slept in the cafeteria as I followed my bright minded idea to drink wine in the pub. The sounds of bottles and glass crashing was melody to the rhythm of people vomitting. It was spectacular. As for me other than feeling like I was drunk before I'd even had a sip of wine, I proved I had sea legs somewhere in me.

Arrived safe and sound at 12:30pm.

I have been here now since Friday and have already have had a good taste of Wellington. A city nestled in between a harbour and oceans, not unlike a Canadian city I promise to make no more references to, Wellington is both beautiful and functional. Unlike Auckland it is rough around the edges and feels more livable and less pristine.

My first night on the town had me at a place called the Mighty Mighty where local band called The Raskolnikovs were playing. A cross between The Clash, Polka and Eastern European music. Fun, although the set started pretty early and ended too soon. I think it's only Toronto these days that has shows starting at midnight.

Nurse my minor booze hangover the next day with more beer at a cricket match. New Zealand vs Sri Lanka. Some helpful friends patiently answered my many many questions about the sport. I can now say I truely understand the point of the game: to sit on the grass, drink beer and get drunk! God bless our British colonial masters! As the rain descended we headed to a fish shop for the classic English (err, Kiwi) meal Fish n' Chips. I ate my first Paua Fritter, too.

Yesterday I accomplished two things: planning the rest of my trip and hiking around the mountains. I was able to do these while jutting in and out of cafes sipping freshly brewed coffee. I also made a breif visit to the Te Papa Muesum which features a beautifully designed building and wonderful (and free) exhibt space inside.

I am now to explore more before I head out to the South Island. If you are curious I now have a Flickr photostream too (where I am uploading these pictures to).

On the flight from Toronto to San Francisco they played Little Miss Sunshine. I was very excited for two reasons: the first was that it was a movie I wanted to see and the second being that I knew I'd be spending part of my New Zealand experience booting around the South Island in a little yellow van similar to that in the movie.

Little did I realise how "similar" an experience I would have. The first trip spent in the little yellow van, named Bee, was to the service centre. The smell or petrol was wreaking throughout the vehicle. Unfortunately the man featured under the van was unable to find anything wrong. The smell has since disappeared.

Clearly (or sadly) train travel in New Zealand is more of a novelty than a legitmate form of transportation. Auckland and Wellington do offer extensive commuter rails, however, when travelling further there is only a single service that runs once daily in summer and alternate days the rest of the year (newly implemented in a restructuring post bankruptcy).

The train left Auckland at 8:10am (scheduled for 7:25am). It lasted 13 hours (scheduled for 12 hours). It featured an extremely friendly, helpful and informative staff. In fact if not for the staff it probably would have been most certainly unenjoyable (picture families with little children wired up on sugar running around a train car for 13 hours). The views, however, we fantastic. And I decided I wouldn't need to bring my camera and checked it. Sigh.

I sat next to an older gentleman who spoke infrequently, however, when doing so imparted nice tid bits about New Zealand and the areas we were travelling through. The train also stopped at National Park near Mt. Tongariro, Mt. Ngauruhoe (featured as Mt. Doom in LOTR) and Mt. Ruapehu for 45 mintes (double drat on the camera). However because of this stopover I am now working my plans in to come back here and hike around the mountains on my way back to Auckland.

Despite the lateness and inefficieny of the train I would highly recommend it as a great way to see the scenary and enjoy a relaxing trip between Auckland and Wellington.

Initial impression: take the UK and Vancouver put it in a blender and add posh spice from Yorkville (Toronto).

Arrived at 5am to Auckland airport. Sniffed out by dogs and passed (I am not a threat to the kiwi-ecosphere).

Already made a circuit from my hostel to the waterfront. Now working my way back. I cannot check-in until 10am. I am still wearing the same clothes since I left some 30 odd hours ago. I plan on remaining stinking until dinner.

It is 10pm and I fly out tomorrow at 8:40 to San Francisco and then eventually onto Auckland. I am still packing. I am pacing because I'm waiting for laundry to finish. I am panicking cause there is still lots to do and I'm not sure where I'm putting all this stuff.

For those curious my approximate route through New Zealand is: Auckland, Wellington, Queen Charlotte Track, Christchurch, Dunedin, Catlins, Stewart Island, Milford Sound, Queenstown, Fox Glacier, Nelson (?), Rotorua, Waitomo and finally Auckland again.